Does a meal composed entirely of snacks qualify as dinner? At Pintxo, the answer is a resounding yes.
Tucked away from Canandaigua’s Main Street, the wine bar offers a refreshing contrast to the area’s predominantly Italian restaurants. Its vibrant tapas menu invites diners to indulge in a unique culinary adventure. Pintxo is a Basque word, roughly pronounced “pin-so,” that means “snacks.”
At the helm of Pintxo are executive chef Julian Plyter and chef de cuisine Pamela Cecere, whose passion for refined pairings infuses every dish. With experience at top establishments like New York’s Crosby Street Hotel and Hawaii’s Four Seasons Hualalai, respectively, their culinary expertise shines. Inspired by the small plates you savor while sipping wine in Europe, the pair crafted a menu that bridges the Finger Lakes’ bountiful harvests with the rich traditions of Spanish cuisine.
Make no mistake, though—it’s not trying to be an authentic tapas spot.
“I don’t think of our menu as Spanish, but it would play really well in Spain,” Plyter muses. “What is Spanish-inspired is the pairing of small plates with different wines, but our true focus is showcasing local food.”
With a nod to his deep-rooted connection to the area—all of his great-grandparents were farmers in this region—Plyter adds, “We’re honoring the tradition of things that are grown here.”
Before I get into all the delicious small plates (and there are many), I want to briefly touch on the experience here.
The heart of Pintxo is its expansive cedar bar, designed and built by Plyter himself. This isn’t just any bar—its unique V-shaped design, crafted from long, angled planks, immediately catches your eye and sets the stage for the restaurant’s polished industrial vibe. The space feels edgy yet inviting, with exposed beams and utilities giving a nod to open loft style.
Anywhere you sit, you’ll get excellent service from the staff, but spots at the bar are coveted. They provide a front-row seat to all the exciting wines being poured, and it’s a great spot to chat with the knowledgeable bartenders.
In the rear, a cozy sixteen-seat dining room, painted in a deep, rich green and lined with bottles, offers a more intimate dining experience, ideal for those seeking a quieter corner or a semiprivate dining area.
I came for dinner with my family, but the dining room was mixed. Some seemed to be grabbing a drink and a snack on their way to dinner, while others appeared to be hanging after a day of wine tasting.
“We’re a restaurant wearing wine bar clothes,” says Plyter. “We’re in the in-between space. I encourage people to try as many things as they have the stomach space for.”
With most dishes on the menu costing less than $10—and being literally a few bites—there’s low risk to trying something new.
As one might imagine, the restaurant serves a mean charcuterie board ($24), a testament to Plyter’s commitment to local sourcing and authentic Spanish flavors. The curated selection features artisanal cheeses from Ithaca’s renowned Forever Cheese alongside cured meats crafted by Queens-based Despana. For a touch of Old World authenticity, Plyter brings in prized Serrano ham from Spain.
“We’re keeping it local where we can but bringing in those imported things that are impossible to do here,” he says.
An excellent example is the Gilda ($6 for two), twee skewers of pickled Basque pepper, briny olive, and a ribbon of delicate white anchovy. Every bit came from a jar or can, but this harmonious combination is the burst of brine I needed while sipping Txakolina or Albariño. Plus, it’s a classic for a reason.
But what really blew me away was the pickle plate ($7), featuring cucumber wedges, carrot coins, and tricolored grapes soaked in sherry. I treated them like crudites, since the local veggies were only lightly pickled. It was a refreshing palate-cleanser between bites of pan con tomate ($7) and goat cheese-jamón sandwich ($11).
The kitchen has a knack for creativity, especially with the specials, so don’t miss out on trying them.
I loved the playful take on grilled cheese ($9), which features triangles of toasted brioche oozing with melted Spanish cheese paired with gazpacho. The warm sandwich against chilled tomato soup is a sensory delight, making me wonder why this delicious combo has never crossed my mind.
Exploration is the name of the game, and the wine list is no exception. Thera Clark, renowned for her tenure as sommelier at Standing Stone Vineyards and Hermann J. Wiemer, lends her classic wine expertise to the Spanish bottles she and Plyter hand-selected for their list.
Together, they’ve assembled a lineup that invites guests to delve into unfamiliar varietals, enriching the dining experience with every sip. And she and the staff is there to help guide the adventure.
I found myself swooning over the Llopart Brut Reserva Corpinnat ($19), its crisp bubbles dancing with the creamy goat cheese sandwich. Clark tells me Corpinnat is an emerging style in Spain started by small Cava producers.
It’s exciting to see what she selects for those craving the aromatic Rieslings our region is famous for. The Mustiguillo Mestizaje ($11), made with stonefruit-forward Spanish Merseguera grapes, offers a similar yet distinctive experience. Her recommendations balance familiar flavors while also challenging the palate with something new.
Featuring wines like Corpinnat and Merseguera where many are more familiar with Riesling, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer is a gutsy move. Yet Pintxo invites locals and tourists to step outside their comfort zones—within reason—and embrace new tastes and experiences.
As I reluctantly push away my empty plate of shrimp escabeche, I realize Pintxo has done more than fill my belly—it’s expanded my culinary horizons. It’s not often that I see a menu where I don’t quite know what to expect yet blindly trust whatever comes out of the kitchen.
Plyter, Clark, and their skillful staff deserve credit for empowering guests to confidently step outside the familiar.
In a region known for its Italian flair and local wines, Plyter and Clark have created a Spanish-inspired oasis that not only complements the Finger Lakes dining scene but elevates it. Whether you’re a wine aficionado or a total novice, Pintxo offers a passport to flavor without leaving Main Street. So go ahead, order that unfamiliar wine and try that intriguing small plate. At Pintxo, every bite and sip is an adventure, and trust me, it’s one you don’t want to miss.
Pintxo Wine Bar
27 Coach St., Canandaigua, NY 14424
(585) 329-8803
pintxo.wine
This article originally appeared in the September/October 2024 issue of (585).
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