When Evan Dawson decided to write Summer in a Glass (Sterling Epicure 2011 and Union Square & Co. 2012), he assumed it would be a self-published piece fueled by passion. Telling the story of the Finger Lakes wine community was more important to him than any potential revenue, so Dawson—a morning news anchor in Rochester— took a sabbatical from his job to get his hands dirty working the harvest.
He quickly discovered a world of producers eager to share the best of the region. Through their willingness, Dawson crafted a breathtakingly vivid picture of FLX wine through thirteen chapters of stories that are honest and sometimes raw—just like harvest in the rain.
“It did not occur to me that there would be such interest,” says Dawson, who still seems surprised at the book’s success.
Dawson won a 2012 Louis Roederer Award for International Book of the Year. He has continued to tell stories both local and global as the host of WXXI Radio’s Connections, a role he’s held since 2014. And, his book has become a well-loved cult classic. “This is a book about people, not wine,” Dawson says decidedly, crediting this to the book’s success.
When asked about a sequel, he smiles. It’s a question he hears often. Dawson notes his list isn’t exhaustive of the community that makes Finger Lakes wine country run. “It was just an encapsulation of where my experiences had taken me within a changing region.”
Dawson says the region remains unrealized—an exciting discovery for a new visitor to New York’s wine country. He seems hopeful, as an evolving industry means more to discover.
Celebrate fourteen years of Summer in a Glass with a tasting tour. Revisit a few stories, or discover a few new producers on Dawson’s list to explore further:
Kemmeter Wines, Seneca Lake
Experiencing Kemmeter Wines today after reading Johannes Reinhardt’s story is a heartwarming moment. His chapter was an emotional rollercoaster, heralding his journey to a permanent worker visa despite award-winning work as winemaker at Anthony Road Wine Company. The sponsorship of a visa by the Martini family opened up a new beginning for Reinhardt. By 2013, he opened Kemmeter Wines, where he makes expressive cool climate Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir.
His wife, Imelda, opened Sans Dumplings in 2020 on their property, and it quickly became a delicious community respite in the thick of the pandemic. She produces a limited menu of 3,000 dumplings weekly, available for takeout or frozen. With few restaurants along the tasting trail, Sans Dumplings is integral to Seneca Lake.
Pro tip: Make a reservation at Kemmeter and order dumplings before your tasting for pick up after. Enjoy them at the picnic tables before your next stop.
Red Tail Ridge Winery, Seneca Lake
The Red Tail Ridge story was just beginning when Dawson introduced Nancy Irelan and Mike Schnelle. The pair relocated from California to New York in 2002 before opening their Seneca Lake tasting room in 2007.
From the start, Red Tail Ridge has focused on transparency in wine. The work starts with Schnelle overseeing viticulture using sustainable practices. In the cellar, Irelan leans into what the land and vintage provide, which includes a range of sparkling wines. Varying styles and price points make it easy to consume bubbly regularly.
In early 2024, the pair finalized construction on an expanded production facility and tasting space with a variety of experiences including a dog-friendly area and open-air seating in addition to an indoor tasting space.
Pro tip: Looking to impress? Try the Blanc de Blanc with french fries for the ultimate high-low food and wine pairing.
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, Seneca Lake
When we first meet Fred Merwarth, he’s a nervous first-time winery owner with big plans. In the years that followed, Merwarth became laser-focused on optimization. As a result, he currently crafts and markets some of the region’s most well-regarded wines.
Named Wine Enthusiast’s 2021 Winemaker of the Year, Merwarth is the first and only from New York State in the twenty-five years the list has been published. In 2023, Hermann J. Wiemer received Demeter Biodynamic Certification for its thirty-three-acre eponymously named vineyard. It is the first east of the Rockies.
Pro tip: Experience the history with a Hermann J. Wiemer library tasting. It will open your eyes to the quality and ageability of wines from the region.
Heart & Hands Wine Company, Cayuga Lake
Since finding the perfect property nestled in the Onondaga Limestone escarpment, Susan and Tom Higgins started making Rieslings, Chardonnays, and Pinot Noirs from grower partners and their own grapes.
The culmination of Tom’s dream to make wine from sustainably farmed estate-grown Finger Lakes Pinot Noir was the 2020 Mo Chuisle Estate Reserve Pinot Noir. Mo Chuisle means “my darling” in Gaelic, and it received the highest scores on record for New York red wine: 96 points by James Suckling and 94 by Decanter magazine.
Though the 2020 is sold out, Heart & Hands will release a limited production 2022 vintage. The Higgeneses are hopeful it will be just as well received.
Pro tip: Go for the Pinot Noir and stay for the esoteric grapes like Aligoté, Auxerrois, and Petite Arvine.
The New New York
When asked what wineries he might include in a new book, Dawson’s list is long.
He includes Louis Barroul and Rick Rainey of Forge Cellars and their extensive and expressive single vineyard bottlings. He is also intrigued by Colleen and Sebastian Hardy of Living Roots Wine & Co., who produce wine in the Finger Lakes and Adelaide Hills, Australia.
Dawson mentions Apollo’s Praise, launched in 2023 by Julia Hoyle and Kelby James Russell. “They are interesting thinkers about everything in life: the community they live in, the values they hold, the work that they do, to the wines that they make,” he explains.
Pro tip: Plan your visits around each lake to maximize your tasting experiences and finish at Living Roots in Hammondsport for a stunning sunset over the bluff.
This article originally appeared in the March/April 2025 issue of (585).
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