Before Redd Wood opened its doors, general manager Doug Court test-drove every seat in the house, hunting for the best one. Ask him now, and he’s like a proud parent choosing a favorite child. He still can’t pick. But he’ll admit he has a soft spot for the booth by the hearth and the one across from the bar.
“I like to be in the action,” Court says. “I want to hear the bar and the kitchen. I want to feel like I’m somewhere that’s alive.”
This philosophy—creating a space that pulses with energy while maintaining comfort—is central to Redd Wood’s identity. The bar stretches spaciously along one wall, while the hearth sits “on a little stage,” as Court describes it, allowing diners to feel like they’re a part of the action without sitting in the middle of the kitchen.
Second restaurants can sometimes feel like copies of the original, but not Redd Wood. Chef Richard Reddington’s sophomore venture locally pulls with its own gravity, offering something entirely fresh compared to its East End predecessor, Redd.
This distinction begins with the physical space itself. The restaurant’s name isn’t just clever wordplay. The modern, “wood” aesthetic, developed by Redd’s friend Erin Martin and consulting firm DJCA Cornerstone, is carried through the concept with remarkable consistency.
Warm Scandinavian blond wood embraces the entire space, giving it a sophisticated yet inviting vibe. As I waited for my table, I ran my fingers along the smooth panels, appreciating how the material both absorbs and reflects the golden lighting.
To the far right of the room sits the wood-burning hearth, which is equal parts culinary workhorse and visual anchor. Look up, and you’ll find the aptly named “cloud” stretching across the ceiling in the center of the space. Its moody forest motif screen-printed onto canvas helps create distinct zones while maintaining a warm, open floor plan.
The result is immersive without trying too hard. The restaurant lives up to its name through texture, layout, and design details, not just surface-level decor. It transforms what was once the four walls of Grinnell’s into a space that, as Court describes, “feels like you’re not necessarily in Rochester.”
And this fresh, carefully curated energy extends to the menu. Executive chef Brad Pareira, who honed his skills at San Francisco’s celebrated State Bird Provisions before his eleven-year collaboration with Reddington in California, brought his expertise to Rochester in 2018. Under his direction, Redd Wood dives deep into French, Italian, and Spanish flavors, particularly evident in the standout raw bar and seafood-forward menu.
I’ll admit, I’m usually wary of raw shellfish this far from the ocean. But the team’s relationships with top purveyors in Maine and Boston mean pristine seafood lands here on the regular. Don’t miss the Island Creek oysters (six for $24), served ice-cold with a sharp champagne mignonette. They’re flawlessly shucked and impossible to resist.
Another standout is the tuna crudo ($22), dressed in a smoky grilled tomato vinaigrette and served without bread or crackers. In practice, it eats like a Mediterranean poké with a healthy helping of briny capers, and I was more than happy to scoop (nay, shovel) the finely diced ahi straight in with my fork. The deep garnet fish was rich, clean, and beautifully cut. However, a pro tip is to ask for a side of Flower City Bread, which is not listed on the menu. It’s the perfect vehicle for sopping up every last bite of that flavorful sauce.
If fried calamari is more your style, try the fried shrimp ($22). It reminds me of a refined fritto misto with a crisp batter. You’ll get a generous pile of plump shrimp, but the real delight is the tender bites of fennel tucked in between. The mix of textures keeps things interesting, and the peppery rouille (similar to aioli) adds just enough zip to keep it from feeling too heavy.
Beyond seafood, the hearth serves as a visual centerpiece while quietly influencing the entire menu. Don’t be fooled by section headings—the woodfired influence extends far beyond dishes listed under “From the Hearth.” Grilled beets ($12) take on unexpected depth, while glossy Parker House rolls (a must-order special) gain subtle smoky complexity from their time near the flames.
As you might expect, Redd Wood sells a lot of steaks. If $120 for a 24-ounce bone-in ribeye feels tough to justify for date night (yes, you read that right), rest assured you can get the same rich flavor from the 10-ounce hanger ($40) and— my personal favorite and perhaps the restaurant’s best value—the 10-ounce teres major steak frites ($49).
The latter, an underutilized cut that delivers filet-like tenderness at a more approachable price point, showcases the kitchen’s commitment to exploring beyond conventional steakhouse offerings. “We’ve cycled through four or five different cuts already that have been on and come off the menu,” Pareira explains. Rotating selections have featured a dry-aged porterhouse and a dry Kansas City strip.
Like at other fine chophouses like Patron Saint and Char, most steaks come with a single sauce, while sides are served à la carte. The steak frites are the delicious exception, arriving with a mountain of addictively salty fries and a velvety red wine bordelaise—all included.
Vegetarian dishes may not dominate the menu, but the ricotta gnudi ($29) is a quiet showstopper. Imagine ravioli stripped down to its most tender essence. There’s no pasta shell, just delicate, cloud-like pillows of ricotta that somehow hold their shape thanks to a meticulous three-day curing process, followed by a gentle steam.
When I visited, they arrived nestled among grilled oyster mushrooms and asparagus, glazed with a vibrant sweet pea purée and finished with a herbaceous green sauce, breadcrumbs, and parmesan. Despite the richness of the cheese, what chef Pareira calls “a very acidic sauce” wakes this dish.
I found myself slowing down with each bite, trying to make the dish last. I couldn’t remember the last time a vegetarian option had captured my attention so completely.
One of the restaurant’s most theatrical touches is its sleek cart, which has evolved from martini delivery vehicle into a roving caviar experience. Court recalls wheeling it around one weekend, chips and crème fraîche meticulously arranged. “I’d walk up and ask, ‘Does anyone here enjoy caviar?’” he says.
Spoiler: they usually do. This simple question transforms the Astrea caviar ($85) from a luxury ingredient into a full-blown spectacle, bringing a new pulse of energy to the dining room whenever it makes an appearance.
“As soon as the cart rolls out, everyone’s watching,” Court says.
And the cart doesn’t play favorites with just caviar. Order a premium spirit like Grey Goose Altus or Monkey 47 gin, and the bartender constructs your drink tableside. At $40 for an espresso martini, it’s not an everyday indulgence, but the presentation justifies the splurge for a special night out.
These thoughtful touches accumulate throughout the evening, creating an experience that lingers well beyond the last bite. As dinner winds down and the soft, glowy lighting warms the wood-paneled walls, I understand what Court meant about wanting to be somewhere that’s alive.
There’s an unusual quality about the space, in the best way. Even at full capacity, the acoustics are so well designed that you can carry on a conversation without raising your voice. (I’m told there is an ingenious sound-dampening system.) The room stays lively without ever tipping into chaos, striking a rare balance between buzz and intimacy.
This distinguishes Redd Wood from merely being a second location. It has its own personality or joie de vivre that feels distinct in the local dining landscape. It welcomes you in and makes you want to come again and again to discover new facets of this uniquely cut gem.
Court was definitely onto something when he couldn’t choose his favorite seat. Whether you’re by the bar the hearth or nestled under the dreamy “cloud,” each vantage point allows you to feel genuinely part of something alive. At Redd Wood, this connection awaits at every table.
Redd Wood
1690 Monroe Ave.
319-4194
This article originally appeared in the July/August 2025 issue of (585).
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