Luckily for those of us in Upstate New York, there’s no better way to learn about cheese production than by exploring the Finger Lakes Cheese Trail.
Cheese Plate
Connecting families to the fruits and vegetables they eat and the farmers who grow them has become a national trend. But there’s another beloved food that’s equally farm-fresh and just as naturally produced: cheese. Luckily for those of us in Upstate New York, there’s no better way to learn about cheese production than by exploring the Finger Lakes Cheese Trail.
Ask a group of kids where milk and cheese come from and their response may surprise you. “Many will answer ‘Mom buys it at the grocery store,’” says Carmella Hoffman, head cheese maker at Sunset View Creamery in Odessa, New York. Founded in 1905, Sunset View is a fourth-generation family dairy farm right in the heart of the Finger Lakes Region. The Hoffmans began producing cheese, along with milk, as a way to add value to their dairy farm. Carmella sees part of her job as being an educator and welcomes visitors from all over the state to visit the farm, pet the animals, learn more about the cheese making process, and sample their products. Because they’re a small operation, the family has time to show visitors around the farm so they can see how it runs on a daily basis. Kids are encouraged to interact with the animals and their tour guide will explain the cow’s journey step-by-step from birth to joining the milking stream they need for cheese production. There’s also a display board with pictures of the cheese making process to look over. Another way families can benefit from the tour is that they’ll be able to put a face to the foods they enjoy. “When you come to our farm you’re able to meet the farmers and the animals that make the cheeses you like to eat,” Carmella emphasizes.
One question she hears a lot from kids involves the color of her cheese. Since the creamery doesn’t use any product that isn’t natural, like yellow food coloring, their cheese may not be the color children may be used to seeing. Sunset View doesn’t use heat or chemicals in their cheese processing either, relying instead on good old-fashioned time and patience. Carmella explains that you can’t rush the cheese making process because if you do it can negatively affect the flavor of the cheese. Even their mildest cheese takes ninety days to age before it’s deemed ready to eat. “You’re eating cheese today that six months ago was still inside a cow!” she jokes. In this age of instant gratification, this lengthy process can be hard for visitors to understand. Carmella notes that people are often surprised when they hear that the cheese isn’t ready to eat yet because they’re so used to walking into a store and buying whatever flavor they want whenever they feel like it. However, she asserts, quality cheese is always worth waiting for.
Finger Lakes cheeses don’t only come from cows. According to Suzanne Messmer, owner of Lively Run Goat Farm in Interlaken, goats are another excellent dairy source. Making goat cheese requires a slightly different process than producing cow or sheep cheese because the milk’s protein structure is dissimilar and more milk is needed to make certain types of cheeses. Unlike the Hoffmans, the Messmers didn’t have a farming background. Starting at square one, they purchased Lively Run as a young family with the goal of teaching their two boys to help around the farm while living off the land. The couple saw goat cheese as a potential niche market because it’s wholesome, doesn’t contain any additives, and has a unique taste. One of the first obstacles they had to overcome was common misperceptions about the friendly animals. Goats are not dirty or smelly, Suzanne declares, noting that her animals are actually so fastidious that they’ll even avoid walking through mud puddles. “Goats are also smart, personable, and fun to pet,” she adds – and the family has lots of stories to share about their amusing antics!
Lively Run Barn Tours begin with a short explanation of goat reproduction and milk production. Next stop is the milk parlor where kids and parents can get to know the goats better by taking pictures with them and feeding them hay. Tours end in the tasting room where you can browse through the photo gallery that shows the various steps of cheese making and sample the cheeses.
Tasting Tips
Trying new types of cheeses can be a learning curve for kids who haven’t been exposed to goat cheese prior to coming to Lively Run. Somewhat surprisingly, Suzanne finds that many six and seven year olds love their blue cheese. French-style Chevre and Mediterranean-style Feta cheeses are also popular. Carmella regards picky eaters as a challenge. “We don’t all like every type of cheese. I myself didn’t think I liked goat cheese,” she admits. “But then I tried it and now I really enjoy it.” She’s found that the Sunset View cheese curds and cheddar cheeses tend to be favorites with the younger set. Another interesting fact about the Cheese Trail is that you can visit four different farms, sampling the same type of cheese at each and not one of them will taste alike. Carmella explains that the flavors and textures will vary depending on factors like what the animals eat or the culture the cheese-maker is using.
On the Farm
Visiting a creamery will help to raise awareness of the economics of farming. “When you see what day-to-day farming involves, you’ll understand that what I do definitely isn’t about making money,” Carmella says ruefully. Their cheese prices may seem higher than those at a larger store but they reflect the cost of farming equipment, the price of feeding fifty cows, and many other things. Suzanne agrees that it’s important for consumers to realize that farming is a tough, but essential, profession. “Dairy farmers work for substandard wages 365 days a year,” she says. “For example our goats need to be milked two times a day no matter what else is going on.” Despite this, neither woman has any regrets about choosing farming as a profession and both families are enthusiastic about their animals and the quality cheeses they produce. They also enjoy having the opportunity to introduce young people to a farming lifestyle.
Suzanne was the original cheese maker at Lively Run but her son Peter, who knows the farm inside out, has gradually taken over her role. Lively Run is one of the oldest members on the Cheese Trail because it was always their goal to connect natural foods and farmers with consumers. The Messmers timing was perfect because the local food movement took off at the same time their cheeses did. They easily transitioned from selling their goat cheeses seasonally at local farmers markets to offering them year-round at regional grocery stores, from larger ones like Wegmans to smaller natural food stores like the Pittsford Dairy and Abundance Food Co-Op in Rochester. Many regional restaurants also feature their cheeses in their various signature dishes. “People aren’t eating as many Kraft Singles anymore!” Suzanne observes.
Who will fill the farmer’s shoes at Sunset View when it’s time for Carmella and Ron to retire? That’s already covered, Carmella reassures cheese-lovers. Her eight-year-old granddaughter, Mackenzie, is already learning to milk the cows and ten-year-old Taryn helps everywhere she’s allowed to, including acting as a knowledgeable and entertaining tour guide. “They’re the next generation of farmers and cheese makers!” Carmella says proudly. +
Sue Henninger is a freelance writer and cheese lover who frequently writes about the unique people, places, and events families can find in the Finger Lakes Region. Contact her at www.fingerlakeswriter.com
VISITING
Sunset View Creamery
- 4970 County Road 14
- Odessa, New York 14869www.sunsetviewcreamery.com
- May Tours: Fridays and Saturdays: 11-3:00 pmMemorial Day-Labor Day: 10-5:00 pm, seven days a week // Cost: Minimal charge for adults, kids are free**It’s best to call ahead for availability and groups with more than ten people need a reservation
Lively Run Goat Farm
- 8978 County Road 142
- Interlaken, New York www.livelyrun.com
- May-October: The shop is open Monday-Saturday from 10-5:00 pm. Barn Tours are offered every day but Sunday at 1:00 pm // Cost: Minimal fee for the tour
THE FINGER LAKES CHEESE TRAIL
4 Tin Fish Farm | www.4tinfishfarm.com
Engelbert Farms | www.engelbertfarms.com
Finger Lakes Dexter Creamery, LLC | www.kefircheese.com
Hillcrest DairyHoffman’s Sunset View Creamery | www.sunsetviewcreamery.com
Keeley’s Cheese Company | www.keeleyscheeseco.com
Kenton’s Cheese Co. | www.kentonscheeseco.com
Jerry Dell Farm & Farm Store | www.jerrydellfarm.com
Lively Run Goat Dairy | www.livelyrun.com
Muranda Cheese Co. | www.murandacheese.com
Shtayburne Farms | www.shtayburnefarms.com
Vanillen Dairy | www.vanillendairy.blogspot.com
Visit www.flcheesetrail.com for locations, product informtion and more.
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