When it comes to tourism, the days of rushing through a checklist of must-see attractions are being replaced with “slow travel.” People are choosing to spend more time in one place, experiencing a destination through meaningful moments—and that includes where they stay.
I recently had the opportunity to embrace this approach while visiting several distinctive bed-and-breakfasts in Penn Yan, just an hour from Rochester, in the heart of the Finger Lakes. Owned by transplants who fell in love with the area, these homes are nestled between Keuka and Seneca Lakes. Each has its own character and style along with authentic connection, warm hospitality, and a relaxed pace. In a digital world where we’re often distracted by devices, these B&Bs invite guests to slow down, look around, and truly take it all in.
Trimmer House
145 E. Main St., Penn Yan
Owning a historic house and caring for it was always part of the plan for Vic and Mary Cottengim, innkeepers of the Trimmer House. In 2023, after a three-year search, a Queen Anne–style house captured their hearts, as did the rolling hills, farmland, and welcoming community.
Built in 1891 by David Orville Trimmer, a wealthy champagne salesman, the home was restored and operated as a B&B from 1997 to 2018. The Cottengims took over with a goal to preserve its history.
“We want this to be an 1890s experience, but it’s not meant to feel like a museum,” says Mary. She encourages guests to make themselves comfortable throughout the house, from the formal parlor to the music room, where a working 1901 player piano serves as a magnificent conversation piece. The five guest rooms are outfitted with four-poster beds and antique furnishings selected by the couple. Other special details range from stencil patterns on the walls to stained-glass windows; even the original doorbell is intact.
Always surprised by whom they meet and why they travel, that connection with guests is the couple’s favorite part of running the B&B. Conversations from around the breakfast table to the front porch often stretch for hours. “What starts as a group of strangers quickly feels more like a gathering of friends, even family,” says Mary. “People who think they’ll keep to themselves often end up joining in … they melt into it and share.”
For breakfast, the menu reflects the couple’s love of history and cooking, with dainty salt cellars and vintage knife rests at each place setting. Favorite dishes include lemon posset, custard cream served in a lemon shell that dates back to sixteenth-century England. They also love serving an open-faced version of croque madame with a Dijon-thyme béchamel sauce.
Los Gatos
1491 Rte. 14A, Penn Yan
Over at Los Gatos Bed and Breakfast, owners Charles and Rebecca Franks are natural storytellers, and both are full of personality and passion for their property. Their goal is to make guests feel relaxed and at home. Ever the ultimate host, Charles has even been known to play chauffeur for his guests.
Originally a private home, the property was transformed into a B&B in 2004, and the original owners named it Los Gatos after their California hometown. Today the solar-powered B&B includes three quaint guest rooms inside the main house, including a suite with a private balcony and separate sitting room. For those looking for a more rustic stay, two adorable log cabins with updated modern comforts are available from April through December. When guests are not exploring the region, there are plenty of welcoming spots to unwind, including a sunroom and a large deck outfitted with rocking chairs, fire pits, and a gazebo that gives way to a tranquil view.
When it comes to the gardens, Charles says things truly come alive in spring as flowers bloom and fruits begin to bud. Fall is when they enjoy the fruits of their labor. The couple grows everything from squash and spinach to elderberries, pears, and strawberries, and even maintains a mini vineyard of grapes used to create their own blended grape juice.
In the kitchen, thirty rotating flavors of homemade jam are displayed, with combinations ranging from cherry pecan to raspberry jalapeño, offering a preview of what’s to come at breakfast. Specialties include blueberry lemon clafoutis, a light, fluffy pancake with fresh blueberries and walnuts, and a Dutch apple baby, a German pancake. Both are especially good with the Franks’ homemade syrup.
Aubergine Bed and Breakfast
311 Clinton St., Penn Yan
Arriving at Aubergine Bed and Breakfast feels like stepping into a storybook. Built in 1869, the home showcases striking Second Empire architectural details, including a mansard roof and distinctive round windows with what owner Christine Pyanoe affectionately calls “wooden eyebrows.”
Originally from the Jersey shore, Christine spent summers camping on Keuka Lake, where she was drawn to its beauty, wines, and warm community. A former French and Spanish teacher with a passion for antiques and entertaining, her dream of owning a Victorian home became reality when she retired in 2014 and moved into her current home. Renovations, a master’s degree in hotel management, and certification as a wine specialist followed, ultimately leading to her title as innkeeper, a role she’s adored for more than ten years. She’s also a garden enthusiast, and the fruits and flowers she grows play a central role in her business.
This B&B offers three guest rooms inspired by the owner’s favorite destinations: France, Italy, and the Finger Lakes. Antique furniture, teapots, collectibles, and seasonal décor are arranged throughout the first floor.
She calls herself “Concierge Christine” and loves helping visitors plan their time in the area, whether recommending restaurants and wineries or hiking trails and lake activities. “Guests can’t believe how much there is to do here,” she says. “It’s very gratifying when I hear my suggestions were spot on.”
Given her wide-ranging background and interests, it’s easy to get lost in conversation. One evening, I wandered downstairs for tea and found myself sitting with Pyanoe by the living room fireplace, trading stories and feeling inspired by her travels, accomplishments, and lifelong love of learning.
In the morning, a hand-written breakfast menu is displayed on a pineapple-shaped chalkboard that may list challah French toast or crustless asparagus quiche. Guests also enjoy Pyanoe’s homemade yogurt bar with fresh berries, honey, and nut toppings.
The Laurentide Inn
158 Main St., Penn Yan
Located on Main Street, the Laurentide Inn stops visitors in their tracks—a grand Greek Revival–style home with stately white columns that rise two stories from the front porch. Built in 1820 for William Morrison Oliver, a lieutenant governor of New York, it remained a private home until 1989, when it became the Fox Inn.
In 2018, Marla and Tracey Hedworth, both with backgrounds in hospitality, became the home’s current owners. After nine months restoring and renovating the building, they opened it as the Laurentide Inn.
Described as a modern take on a traditional bed and breakfast, the chic interior is spacious, with historic details like ornate fireplaces, vintage candelabras, and parquet floors. Stylish seating invites guests to linger, while a pool table adds a playful touch. The four suites are sophisticated and charming.
The couple’s love of cooking and hosting extends beyond the inn. Tracey became a brewer, and they converted their historic carriage house into Laurentide Beer Company featuring in-house beers, New York State wines and spirits, elevated pub fare, and live music. Larger groups can book the post-and-beam-style carriage house loft above the brewery. It comes with a full kitchen, dining room, and living room.
Breakfast is served bistro-style in the solarium, with up to four rotating entrée options and playful callouts to the region. “You are in wine country; start your day off properly” with a mimosa of the day or opt for the brown-bag breakfast, “I am saving my calories for wine,” which includes a freshly pressed green juice, banana, and homemade granola bar. Even the signature buckwheat pancakes tell a local story, serving as a clever tribute to the time Penn Yan held the world record for cooking the largest pancake.
This article originally appeared in the July/August 2026 issue of (585).
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